2022 Carruades de Lafite, Pauillac, Bordeaux

As with the other Lafite wines this year, the quality of the tannins stands out. This has 16% press wine, higher than usual. The suave, fine-grained tannins transport the wine across the palate with both energy and grace. The fruit profile is marked by intensity and, if anything, is a little dumb at present. Yet with time, it unfurls on the palate. The notes are principally classic – sandalwood and mint – but the warmth of the vintage shows in roasted cumin and allspice notes. This is a brilliantly compact expression of a great Pauillac terroir, and one that will require patience to reveal its best.

Cabernet Sauvignon 53%; Merlot 40%; Cabernet Franc 4%; Petit Verdot 3%

Drink 2030-2050

Score: 18/20

Berry Bros. & Rudd (April 2023)