2022 Château les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux

This astonishing wine is probably Guillaume Pouthier’s best ever. It stands apart stylistically in Bordeaux, not just because of the radical use of whole bunches (a record 70% this year). The estate’s unique terroir boasts a little Left Bank limestone among its gravels and clay, too, and Cabernet Franc is important.

Guillaume is an instinctive innovator. He has worked ceaselessly to understand the subtleties of each vineyard plot and react accordingly – but only if necessary. He extended the post-fermentation maceration to six weeks, held at 26°C. The alcohol fell to 13.5%, and the pH arrived at 3.64, absorbed by the stems from the whole bunches; this was the lowest pH for any red wine we tasted.

Ageing is in a mix of new barrels, 18-hectolitre casks and amphorae. The wine shows a savoury bitterness, a floral rose perfume, a note of iodine and oyster, pure cassis and fresh green garden herb, all held in an embroidery of sinewy, tense but resolved tannins. It’s a brilliant work of art.

Cabernet Franc 40%; Cabernet Sauvignon 34%; Merlot 26%

Drink 2030 - 2065

Score: 19.5/20

Berry Bros. & Rudd (April 2023)