2021 Morey-St Denis, Gérard Raphet, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

The Premiers Crus of Morey St Denis cover the width of the commune on the lower slopes, below the Grands Crus. Another small band lies just above the Grands Crus at the northern end of the commune, adjacent to Gevrey-Chambertin. For the most part they are on very gentle slopes. This appellation includes 20 Premiers Crus Climats, from Les Blanchards to Clos de la Bussière.

Gérard Raphet took charge in succession to his father Jean in 2002. I remember the latter’s 1988 being the clear winner in a significant line up of young Clos de Vougeot wines at a tasting at the Chateau de Gilly, but alas that particular wine did not really live up to my expectations. This is now certainly a good source, for Morey st denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, along with grands crus Clos de Vougeot, Clos de la Roche, Charmes-Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.