2021 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, Bordeaux

Cabernet Sauvignon 58%, Merlot 32%, Petit Verdot 6%, Cabernet Franc 4%.

As a biodynamic estate whose 2017 vintage was effectively destroyed by mildew, alarm bells may have been ringing here this year – but lessons have been learnt. An in-house tisanerie for the advance preparation of biodynamic treatments, a policy of no-plough and grass between the rows (to absorb as much rain as possible) did the trick, alongside ceaseless monitoring of the bunches. Alfred Tesseron says they were only down 15% on expected yield. As usual, SO2 use is heavily reduced and 35% of the crop is aged in concrete amphorae. This has let the fruit sing, with relaxed aromas of hedgerow, lavender, peony and more savoury hints of coffee and leather. There is no lack of concentration, and every element feels well proportioned.

Our score: 17.5/20

Berry Bros. & Rudd