2021 Arcurìa, Etna Bianco, Graci, Sicily, Italy
- White
- Dry
- Medium Bodied
- Carricante
Ready - youthful
- Eric Guido
- 88/100
- James Button
- 92/100
- James Suckling
- 92/100
- Monica Larner
- 93+/100
Product: 20211370249
Description
Carricante from the favourable, northern Slopes. Nose is beautifully expressive, and the palate is giving and generous with concentration to the fresh, lemon and stone-fruit characteristic. Flinty notes and lees complexity. Finish is floral and fruit filled. The white wines of Etna are set to continue to impress – and this is certainly a compelling example. Fresh and pretty whilst also packing serious texture and complexity.
Drink 2024 - 2034
Charlie Leech, Buying Assistant, Berry Bros. & Rudd
Colour White
Sweetness Dry
Vintage 2021
Maturity Ready - youthful
Grape List Carricante
Body Medium Bodied
Producer Graci, Sicily
Critics reviews
Eric Guido 88/100
The 2021 Etna Bianco Arcuria is coy, as coaxing slowly unlocks a delicate blend of wet stones, pear and a disturbing hint of Band-Aid. It’s silky and soothing with a saline tinge up front and ripe orchard fruits that swirl above a core of brisk acidity. The 2021 tapers off long, lightly structured and mineral in style, leaving subtle lime and ginger suggestions. This would be a lovely rendition of Arcuria Bianco if not for the bouquet, which I fear is suffering from Brettanomyces.I found the Etna Rossos from Graci among the top wines I tasted for this year's report. Especially the 2018 Arcuria Sopra il Pozzo, which transcends the conditions of this challenging year. The 2020 Rosso Arcuria and Rosso Feudo di Mezzo were equally compelling. However, I can’t say the same for the 2021 and 2022. In both cases, the wines come across as understated to a fault or mineral to the point of being fruit-challenged. When possible, I checked in on a second bottle, each time with the same result. For example, the 2021 Arcuria shows a Band-Aid note on the nose that leads me to suspect Brettanomyces.Drink 2023 - 2026eric_guido, Vinous.com.com (September 2023)
Drink 2023 - 2026
James Button 92/100
Graci's Arcuria Bianco 2011 was the first white wine in Italy to be labelled with an MGA (Arcuria is the name of the contrada the vines are located in). Vinified partly in cement vats and partly in large barrels, it then matures for 12 months on the lees followed by 12 months in bottle. This 2021 features a gentle peach and saline nose with some white pepper and crunchy apple. Steely and textured, in the mouth it offers flavours of white peach, grapefruit, apple and a touch of spice. Bright, sapid and succulent, give this a bit more time to open up.Drink 2023 - 2037james_button, Decanter.com (May 2023)
Drink 2023 - 2026
James Suckling 92/100
This has delicious salinity with notes of sea urchins, seashells, lemons, green pineapple and fun flint. Driven and focused, with a medium body and tangy acidity. Flinty at the end. Drink or holdjames_suckling, jamessuckling_com (September 2022)
Drink 2023 - 2026
Monica Larner 93+/100
The 2021 Etna Bianco Arcurìa reveals a volcanic bouquet with sulfur stone, lots of citrus and honeydew melon. The wine needs to flesh out further, and thanks to that hint of reductiveness, we can expect a long drinking window. The wine sees both stainless steel and large oak aging, and only 4,000 bottles were made.Alberto Aiello Graci is one of the protagonists of the Etna wine movement. He has added a beautiful new white wine to his portfolio from the Contrada Mugnanazzi, which sits at 700 meters above sea level.Drink 2023 - 2032monica_larner, Wine Advocate (June 2023)
Drink 2023 - 2026
About this wine
Carricante
Carricante is one of the most important and traditional grape varieties used to produce white wines in Sicily, Italy. It's known for its crisp acidity, minerality, and delicate aromas, making it a favourite among enthusiasts who appreciate lighter, refreshing styles of white wine.
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Graci, Sicily
Alberto Aiello Graci has been making wine on Sicily's Mount Etna since 2004, the year he returned from his apprenticeship as a Milan banker, picking up the baton with 5 hectares of family land, 2 hectares of which is vineyards (the rest polycultural activities). The region of Etna Rosso, famous for its black lava soils and elegant red wines made from the Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio grapes, has been undergoing a revival since 2000, lured by juicy EU grants and spectacular scenery. Once carpeted with vines - the fruit of which was allegedly used to in bulk to prop up the wines of the Langhe and of Burgundy - it has now become an artisan's playground, a mix of hobbyist and commercial winegrowers. Alberto Graci is definitely in the latter category; his feet firmly on the ground. As the Vice President of the Consorzio, that covers 300 hectares of Etna DOC, he's forever preoccupied with the quality of the wines now being produced (at yields still as high as 65hl/ha). His patch of heaven is part 50 year old, 8500 high density, free-standing 'alberello' vines at 1000 metres above sea level that produce naturally low yields amid the black grainy soils, part younger trained vines on flatter, lower sandier terra. He prefers to tend his vines as naturally as possible. Fermentation takes place in a combination of large cement and Au strian Stockhinger oak of 42hl, at ambient (30-35 celsius) temperatures, using wild yeast, before moving the wine into slightly smaller Gamba barrels. He seeks the reductive quality of large oak, that captures the character of the soil and fruit, rather than the stylistic effects of micro-oxygenation brought by French barriques. Alberto debuted his Etna Rosato (100% Nerello Mascalese) with the 2013 vintage, partnering the earlier drinking smoky red Etna Rosso, the more structured, wilder berried Quota 600 (from vines 600 metres up - a 500 case production of only Nerello Mascalese and Cappuccio, lush and lithe), the high thrills of his Quota 1000 and the minerally citrus Etna Bianco Contrada Arcuria (made from 100% Carricante).
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