2020 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux

Cabernet Sauvignon 84%, Merlot 13%, Cabernet Franc 2%, Petit Verdot 1%

This is Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy’s first vintage, stepping into the shoes of Philippe Dhalluin after having been previously at sister property Clerc Milon. This is a wine of enormous concentration; the aromas are initially muted. The wine is driven by the essence of Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s impassive but also seemingly tamed, as there is a polish to all its edges. The touchstones of cassis, graphite and cedar are all ingrained into the wine’s fabric. The greater finesse evident since the start of the noughties is present in its umami attraction and the saline grip of its tannins. This is beguiling in its depth and purpose.

Drink 2030-2060