2019 Nicolas-Jay, L'Ensemble, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA

Jean-Nicolas Méo is, quite rightly, both proud and excited by his special barrel selection from the eight vineyards that Nicolas-Jay work with. His rather wonderful analogy about making this wine is, ‘In Oregon I get to paint with at least eight colours, even more with the different characteristics of each block. In Burgundy I only get to paint with one colour at a time’.

His 2019 L’Ensemble is just gorgeous with its musky perfume and tempting nose of juicy yet fine red and black fruit. Notes of raspberries and sandalwood combine with a twist of tart Christmas orange and a sweet cranberry lift. The tannins here are super fine; they have plenty of initial friction but they so are pin-point in shape that they then seamlessly dissipate, in a moderating, gentle way that catches you unawares.  There is an extremely fine purity on the palate here and a refined minerality, revealing the volcanic nature of this wine from its red, Jory soils. Overall, this is beautifully fresh, harmonious, elegant, and downright delicious. Quite the masterpiece.

Drink 2024 - 2034

Catriona Felstead MW, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Nov 2021)