2019 Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Arlaud, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Domaine Arlaud Pere & Fils was created by Joseph Arlaud, originally from the Ardèche, in the years after World War II. He was succeeded by his son Hervé, not yet fully retired though he has handed over the running of the domaine to his children. Cyprien has been there since 1998, his brother Romain since 2004, while sister Bertille manages the two Auxois horses used to plough four hectares of their own vineyards and a similar amount for other domaines. The farming has been organic since 2004, currently awaiting certification, and various biodynamic trials are planned. Production expanded to 15 hectares with an agreement to farm the vineyards of Guy Coquard on his retirement in 2004.   The Arlauds have retained an attractive cellar in Nuits-St-Georges but the vinification and élévage take place in modern cellars below the main road in Morey. Cyprien Arlaud’s techniques might be described as ‘modern classic’: vibrating sorting table, 100 per cent destalking, cool pre-maceration, pumping over, and a varying proportion of new wood from 20 per cent for village wines to between 40 per cent (Clos de la Roche) and 100 per cent (Clos St-Denis) for the grands crus. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.