2019 Condrieu, Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay, Stéphane Ogier, Rhône

The Ogier family had been established growers in Ampuis for over seven generations, but it was only in the 1980s that they began vinifying their own grapes. Stéphane joined the family estate in ’97, working alongside his father Michel, before taking over in 2003.

There are now plantings of Viognier worldwide but this grape’s spiritual homeland is in Condrieu – where the finest Viogniers are produced. The appellation was created in 1940, and today over 40 growers make wines from just over 100 hectares of vineyards. The wines are dry with a wonderful floral nose of peaches, apricots, violets and pears, and quite alcoholic, with low-ish acidity. Condrieus are best enjoyed when young.