2018 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Combottes, 1er Cru, Remoissenet Père & Fils, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Remoissenet Père et Fils was founded in Burgundy in 1877, and was established in a 14thcentury building in Beaune. In recent years, the company was run by larger-than-life Roland Remoissenet for around 30 years, before it was sold and taken over by a consortium including the Milstein brothers from the USA, Halpern Enterprises of Toronto and Louis Jadot, with Bernard Répolt, veteran of managing several other Beaune houses, in charge. The business is on the lookout for vineyards to acquire. In the years before the UK joined the EEC there were some intriguing cuvées which were understood to be the surplus production of grand wines under simpler noms de plume. I remember for example some Bourgogne Rouge, Cuvée du Cardinal Richelieu from I think 1972, which may or may not have had an affinity with Richebourg.   The company owns 2.5 hectares of Beaune premier crus, including Bressandes, Marconnets and Grèves, but their stock is solidified by wines obtained from their négociant business, and the Montrachet vines of Baron Thénard, whom they represent.   In addition to the annual harvest, a few extra bottles are sold each year that were residing in the cellars when the estate was sold. These ancient bottles are considered rarities and great collectors’ items, and at the time of purchase there were around 1 million of them. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.