2018 Nuits-St Georges, Clos de Thorey, 1er Cru, Domaine de la Vougeraie, Burgundy

Sylvie Poillot, General Manager, farms the estate’s 42 hectares biodynamically. “We do this to preserve the fertility of soils, and to have a very good balance between the soil and the plant’s health,” she explains. It’s not just the soil health that’s changed: two decades on from their conversion to biodynamics, the wines are evolving too: “The wines are more aromatic and more expressive year after year,” she says.

Vougeraie has a huge three hectares here; half the vines are young and half over 50 years old. This is a wine of real aromatic intensity, with plenty of perfume and a touch of ground coffee. The palate is very juicy with a creamy, luxurious texture and a long, fine finish with layers of powdery, salivating tannin. Drink 2022-2028.