2017 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Lignier-Michelot, Burgundy

The nose has rich blueberry and mulberry fruit, a cool, rocky intensity and some peony notes. There is a fascinating contrast of rich fruit and rocky tannins, all set to a backdrop of haunting perfume with a floral character which runs the length of the wine. Outstanding. Drink 2024-2035.

Having tasted numerous different wine styles Virgile decided he loves wines made with whole bunches, and has set about changing his winemaking to include a larger proportion each year, arriving now at a stage where he can’t imagine himself using less than 50 percent. His winemaking is consequently very gentle to avoid extracting harsh tannins from the stems. He began harvesting on 10th September, a little later than some neighbours as he waited for the stems to ripen. Virgile feels this is a vintage which has gained enormously from élevage, giving fine, elegant wines which will drink well early and age surprisingly well.