2017 Condrieu, Côte Châtillon, Domaine Mouton, Rhône

A white grape variety originating in the Northern Rhône and which in the last ten years has been increasingly planted in the Southern Rhône and the Languedoc.

There are now plantings of Viognier worldwide but this grape’s spiritual homeland is in Condrieu – where the finest Viogniers are produced. The appellation was created in 1940, and today over 40 growers make wines from just over 100 hectares of vineyards. The wines are dry with a wonderful floral nose of peaches, apricots, violets and pears, and quite alcoholic, with low-ish acidity. Condrieus are best enjoyed when young.

Father and son, Jean-Claude and Bryan Mouton own vines which sit high above the village of Condrieu. Their modest winery is located right on the top of the hill, giving a wonderful view over the valley below. They currently farm 3.4 hectares in the appellation, with another 1.5 due to come into use over the next few years. The brilliant Viognier IGP wine contains fruit from 30- to 40-year-old vines but which, at 385-395m, lie just above the Condrieu classification altitude limit of 350m. The two original Condrieu lieux dits cuvées express two quite different terroirs. Côte Bonnette is mainly planted on granite, whilst Côte Chatillon (not available this year) is based on a mixture of clay, limestone and loess. In the winery, minimal new oak is used and the wines are matured in Burgundian barrels with little to no toasting and one concrete egg.