2017 Leeuwin Estate, Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia

The 2017 vintage in Margaret River was cool and wet, and it was the great producers that excelled that year, mainly by virtue of reactive and courageous vineyard management. The wine is closed for now, and it's savoury and slick. It's in a quiet place now but will open up again over time. It's almost rambunctious, which flies in the face of the vintage that birthed it. 

The winemaking remains relatively consistent across the years: hand-picked fruit from Block 20 and 22 (planted in 1976 and 1978, respectively). Thirty per cent of the cuvée was whole bunch pressed to 100% new Burgundian oak, while the balance was destemmed, crushed and pressed to 100% new Bordelais oak. Sulfured post-ferment to discourage malolactic fermentation, both components remain in barrel for 11 months. The 2017 ferment was fully inoculated.

This tasting was part of an annual vertical tasting at the estate, with both winemakers (Tim Lovett and Phil Hutchinson), viticulturist (David Winstanley) and owner Simone Horgan in presence. There has never been a better insight into how these Chardonnays age and evolve. The move to screw cap has revolutionized the consistency bottle to bottle and has made a big impact on the age-ability of the wines. These are powerful, long-lived Chardonnays that evolve gracefully and slowly over time.

Drink 2023 - 2047

Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate (July 2023)