2016 Coteaux Champenois Rouge, La Côte aux Enfants, Bollinger, Champagne

Long before we found bubbles in our Champagne, this region was praised for producing excellent red wines. Bollinger’s La Côte aux Enfants cuvée takes us back to these days gone by, but with modern viticulture. It’s produced from a steep sided Grand Cru plot of just four-hectares, named “La Côte aux Enfants” in the village of Aÿ. It can be described as a tiny production, hauntingly perfumed 100% Pinot Noir with real elegance and good cellaring potential. It’s a brilliant testament to the true beginnings of Champagne’s success, fame and fortune.

This very special Pinot Noir greets you with aromas of black rose petals and damson, the nose unfolding with an enticing spiciness and muddled forest fruit. Seamlessly balanced, the palate offers up a crunchy core of wild red fruit, flickers of bramble enveloped with subtle spice, framed by a graphite acidity. Ooh this is tasty, it doesn’t stop there though; the texture is mouth-filling, tannins are perfectly aligned - ripe with a gentle grip, and it moves through the gears towards a long and graceful finish. Whole bunch pressing brings another dimension, carrying the depth of flavour yet retaining freshness and poise, its rather impressive. Sadly, production is miniscule, a wine for Pinot Noir drinkers and collectors alike, it is unlikely to hang around for long, grab a case whilst you can. I’d afford it at least few years in the cellar, it will reward drinking from 2023 – 2034, or hitting the sweet spot from 2028 if you have the patience!