2016 Fixin, Clos de la Perrière, 1er Cru, Domaine Joliet, Burgundy

Bénigne continues to pursue his goal of Grand Cru recognition for his wonderfully positioned five-hectare vineyard. He now has the support of the local growers’ association to make the application but he knows it will be a long battle. The Grand Cru battleground is in Nuits-St Georges for the moment. Nevertheless, there is something special happening here: do not be deceived by what appears to be the simpler Fixin appellation. Tasting the three vineyard elements separately (south – fruity but with a core of stern fruit; under the forest – ripe violet and blackcurrant; north – crunchy, good tannic structure) gave a wonderful insight to the wine’s final blend (an equal third of each), combining all those elements but also greater than the sum of its parts. The tannins are very silky, again defying the wine’s appellation. Drink 2020-2030.
Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There are certain vineyard sites up and down the Côte d’Or which have been recognised for centuries as being outstanding locations. One such is the Clos de la Perrière in Fixin, just north of Gevrey-Chambertin, founded by the monks of Cîteaux in the early 12th century. Dr Lavalle (1855) noted it as a Tête de Cuvée, making wines which kept for longer than any others of the Côte d’Or. The Joliet family purchased the Manoir de la Perrière and its attendant vines in 1853. Bénigne, who has bought out other family members so as to be able to run the domaine as he wants, is the sixth generation of the family. There was some frost damage on the higher vineyards which reduced the yield to 22hl/ ha, and only 70 percent whole-bunch used this year. There was very light extraction, as always, with only three punch-downs during the three-week fermentation, and very little pumping over. The wine will spend two years in barrel, with 20 percent new oak.