2013 La Granja, Gran Reserva, Remelluri, Rioja, Spain

It is owner/winemaker Telmo Rodríguez’s aim to gradually elevate the style of La Granja Gran Reserva to one of the greatest wines of all Rioja, and his progress is ably demonstrated in this 2013. This wine has fabulous aromas that you could inhale all day: concentrated black cherries and red liquorice, with an edge of sweet spice and an aniseed ball top note.

The palate is still incredibly restrained compared to the nose, suggesting that this wine deserves cellaring. Despite the heady nose, the flavours of this wine take some time at present to seek out, but they are there, notes more of red cherries and raspberries than black fruit now in the background, holding back, yet with a sense that they will eventually coat the palate, given time. This is a fresh and exquisite wine with a real feel of Bordeaux.

The tannins are high but tiny, dominating at present with light French oak spice, yet these will undoubtedly resolve after more time laid down. It is an incredibly fine, layered, sophisticated and harmonious wine with a long and savoury finish.

Drink 2022 - 2037

Catriona Felstead MW, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (April 2021)