2013 Champagne Henri Giraud, Argonne, Brut

Named for the relationship between Champagne and the Argonne Forest, which historically provided the oak for barrels used in Champagne production until the mid-20th Century and on which the reputation of Champagne was provided.

In all vintages, Argonne speaks to my love of rich and powerful Champagnes. The nose is loaded with stewed apple, breakfast pastries and layers of baking spices. On the palate a crisp acidity and minerality prevent the wine being overbearing, instead bringing balance to the multi-faceted palate. Layer after layer of ripe pears and apples, almonds and brioche are wrapped in a rich mousse that lingers for minutes on the palate. This is a very serious wine and I’d be tempted to decant this to allow its full breadth of power and complexity to speak. Drink 2024-2040 (if you can resist that long).

Paul Keating, Private Account Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd (Oct 2021)