2012 Morey-St Denis, 1er Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Hubert Lignier, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

The Premiers Crus of Morey St Denis cover the width of the commune on the lower slopes, below the Grands Crus. Another small band lies just above the Grands Crus at the northern end of the commune, adjacent to Gevrey-Chambertin. For the most part they are on very gentle slopes. This appellation includes 20 Premiers Crus Climats, from Les Blanchards to Clos de la Bussière.

The story here has become complicated. Hubert Lignier put this domaine on the map with a series of impressive vintages made in a forthright, concentrated style with both oak and extraction evident but not abused. In due course his talented son Romain took over, fine-tuning production rather than making any significant stylistic changes. Then, tragically, Romain, recently married to an American girl, Kellen, and with two young children, developed a brain tumour from which he died. Following this, Hubert decided to come out of retirement and has now re-established Domaine Hubert Lignier & Fils with his other son Laurent. He apparently has the right to some of the grapes farmed by Kellen and her team as sharecroppers, and to a proportion of the wines that she has made. Thus for the most part the Domaine Hubert Lignier wines have been grown and vinified by Domaine Lucie & Auguste Lignier, but bottled by Hubert and Laurent. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.