2012 Barolo, Ester Canale Rosso, Vigna Rionda, Giovanni Rosso, Piedmont, Italy

Tasting the wine from the barrel, I was struck, not by any particular aroma or flavour, but by the elegant shape of the wine. Pale red/ruby in colour, the nose is reassuringly self-effacing; it’s understated, composed and cultured, delicately perfumed with mulberry, a hint of menthol and cool clove. 

The palate is remarkable for its serenity, Maserati line and persistence. The layers of tight, sweet-berried fruit and spice are barely discernible, racy with cleansing acidity, framed by the finest tannins. Compared with vintage 2011, Vigna Rionda 2012 is more classical, with cooler, delicate aromatics, aromatics that become fragrant on the palate. Good wine. Only 1,457 litres have been made and are being sold as ‘futures’ to be released in the bottle in spring 2016. 

David Berry Green, Italy Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd