2014 Clos Saint Denis, Grand Cru, Domaine Bertagna, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Domaine Bertagna was originally put together by Monsieur Bertagna in the 1950s before he sold to the Reh family in 1982. Eva Reh-Siddle has been in charge since 1988 with various winemakers at the helm, notably Roland Masse, now at the Hospices de Beaune, and Claire Forrestier who was responsible for vintages from 1999 to 2005. Eva's sister Annegret also runs the world-famous Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt estate in the Mosel.   The domaine has impressive holdings in the commune of Vougeot, allied to several grands crus from other communes and some volume in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits. All these are processed in an efficient, high tech cuvérie before élévage in the substantial underground cellars. Jasper Morris MW author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.