2009 Château Marsau, Francs-Côtes de Bordeaux

The most widely planted grape in Bordeaux and a grape that has been on a relentless expansion drive throughout the world in the last decade. Merlot is adaptable to most soils and is relatively simple to cultivate. It is a vigorous naturally high yielding grape that requires savage pruning - over-cropped Merlot-based wines are dilute and bland. It is also vital to pick at optimum ripeness as Merlot can quickly lose its varietal characteristics if harvested overripe.

This excellent little property in the obscure Côtes de Francs is producing delicious wines. Owned by the president of Bordeaux negociant, Dourthe, Jean-Marie Chadronnier, Chateau Marsau has been heralded by Robert Parker as "The Petrus of the Côtes de Francs". Lying at the top of a hill, north-east of the village of Francs, the vineyards benefit from an excellent microclimate, with exceptional sunshine hours. The soils are predominantly clay which suits the Merlot grape variety, with which 85% of the vineyards are planted, very well. The character of the wines is classic right-bank with soft, round, elegant fruit and fabulous balance.