2007 Champagne Louis Roederer, Brut

Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon once again demonstrates his mastery and reputation as one of the leading Champagne winemakers of his generation with this superb effort, the child of less than ideal vintage conditions, although you would not think so when tasting this wine. The blend is made up of 70 percent Pinot Noir and 30 percent Chardonnay, 30 percent of which is aged for 10 months in oak, before a lengthy and leisurely four years of lees’ maturation.

The wine shows off the powerful potential of Pinot Noir, with savoury elements and hints of redcurrant to underwrite a velvety mid-palate elegance, buttressed by impressively persistent and small bubbles, and a lively but far from overwhelming mousse. The palate is symphonic with notes of brioche, hawthorn and soft orchard fruit all vying for attention, and an appropriately rousing finale.