2007 Contino, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain

Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana (CVNE) was founded in 1879 by the Real de Asua brothers and nearly 140 years later their descendants are still in charge of what is now a considerable operation.  In 1973 they created Contino, the first single-estate concept in the Rioja region. “Textbook” fails to capture the flair necessary to produce such an exquisite wine in a middling vintage like 2007. Let’s call this instead a consummate Gran Reserva Rioja.

Two years in French and American oak, followed by another three in bottle, have contributed hints of tobacco and vanilla, which combine seamlessly with an array of primary aromas including blackberries and eucalyptus. Good acidity, weighty but well-integrated tannins and a long, harmonious finish. Delicious now, but it promises to age beautifully – all the more so in magnum.