2007 Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, Brut

From the one-hectare plot of old Pinot Noir vines planted in 1964 in effectively the back yard of the Billecart-Salmon HQ in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Officially certified organic in 2022 and biodynamically managed since spring 2023. The Blanc de Noirs was vinified in oak casks aged between 15 and 20 years.Very pale amber. Extremely fine bead. Nose of minerals and very ripe, round greengage fruit. Already a well-married drink even if not the most ample finish but this is likely to be the finest 2007 Blanc de Noirs you’ll encounter.Drink 2024 - 2032jancis_robinson_mw MW, JancisRobinson.com (February 2024)

2007 presents a rather different version of Le Clos St-Hilaire from the previous two releases (2006 and 2005). The hallmarks of the wine are very much there, with plenty of signs of maturity in the apricot kernel, chestnut honey and dark, tangy roasted apple fruit, with a welcome jolt of pink grapefruit-like acidity squeezing hard with some of the firmness and tension of the vintage. Despite this physical brightness, it is already in a nicely aligned spot to drink, with its autumnal ageing profile a little more present (at least in the bottle tasted) than was the case on release of the 2006 or 2005.Made with Pinot Noir from the family's historic walled garden in the village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, 100% vinified in oak and aged on lees for 14 years.Drink 2024 - 2030Tom Hewson, Decanter.com (January 2024)

Single parcel Pinot Noir, 100% vinified in oak barrels. No malo. Disgorged May 2023. 3.8g/L dosage.Beautifully complex and mineral with notes of chalk, blanched almonds, dried raspberries, rose petals, pink grapefruit, nutmeg and pink peppercorns. Complex, tight and structured, with a medium to full body, plenty of strength yet elegant. Tight bubbles. Long, firm and savoury.Drink or holdjames_suckling, jamessuckling_com (December 2023)