2007 Château de Fonbel, St Emilion, Bordeaux

Made by the same team as the legendary Ch. Ausone it is hardly surprising that Fonbel's 2007 is so impressive. Made with 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% of the rarely seen Carmenère, the wine's pure nose of plums and smoky black fruit leads seamlessly into a dense yet finely textured palate of concentrated, cool blackberries and peppery spice. This classy, succulent wine is easily as good as many St Emilions double the price.

The grapes are fermemnted in stainless steel tanks before going into oak barrels for maturation, 30% new. The wine is bottled about 10 months later. In style it is fairly typical of many St Emilions of this class, but it benefits from the meticulous attention to detail which Alain Vauthier brings to all his wines, and this raises its quality above the norm, such that it represents one of the most under-valued wines in the area.