2013 Riesling, Smaragd, Klaus, Prager, Wachau, Austria

Prager is run by Toni Bodenstein, son-in-law of Franz Prager and one of the most celebrated winemakers in Austria today. Earnest but very likeable, Toni has made a minute geological study of this extraordinary terroir, producing wines which are united by an incredible sense of purity.

With lofty intent, the 4.5-hectare Klaus vineyard stands high above the Danube valley, looking down on the sites below. No wonder then that in 2013, it should thrill with racy, high-toned fruit. It struts with fantastic lemon sherbet pulse; so juicy, so pure. For once it seems to have revelled in the cooler, late-harvest vintage, responding with charm. Just check that outrageous saltiness on the finish. This is a very dry wine, with a mere three grams of residual sugar offset by 8.1 grams of natural acidity! Stunning. Drink now to 2028.