1996 Château Léoville Poyferré, St Julien, Bordeaux

For a long time this estate was the poor relation of the Léoville clan, however, improvements in quality have been noticeable since the early 1990s and 1996 was a real success for Poyferré. The château traditionally produced the softest and most supple wine of the three Léovilles, yet the wines have definitely put on weight and body. This is largely due to the grapes being harvested riper and later, and because of the increased exposure to new oak in the maturation process. The wines are now up with the best of the St Juliens, but still selling at non-scary prices.

The nose sings with notes of oak, forest fruits, truffles and tobacco leaves while the palate reveals impressive fruit concentration, a fleshy full-bodied structure and a harmonious integration of fruit and tannins.