2017 Pouilly-Fuissé, Clos des Quarts, Cuvée 100 Ans, Château des Quarts, Burgundy

The initial palate is discreet, before exploding with an enormous amount of concentration, plenty of mouthfilling volume and an extraordinary minerality which builds behind the dense fruit. The finish is long and satisfying, with a chewy, phenolic grip. This is a true one-off, a wine of enormous density, power and focus. Drink 2021-2032.

Château des Quarts was created in 2012 by two of our favourite vignerons, Dominique Lafon and Olivier Merlin, who are old friends. The vineyard is managed by Olivier and the wine made in his facility at La Roche Vineuse. This monopole vineyard of 2.23 hectares in Chaintré is surrounded by a high stone wall, facing east, overlooking the Saône valley.

The 2017 vintage saw the 100-year anniversary of the planting of the oldest parcel of vines in the Clos des Quarts. The key to their longevity is riparia rootstock and an old-school training and pruning regime. To celebrate the centenary, Dominique Lafon and Olivier Merlin, custodians of the special property and vineyard, have decided to bottle the wine made from these ancient vines separately. Production is 10 barrels, equating to just 1,500 magnums, which are offered in individual wooden cases.