2017 Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Favorites, Vieielle Vignes, Alain Burguet, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine-producing village in Burgundy’s Côte d'Or. Located in the far north of the Côtes de Nuits, the classic style is typically deeper in colour, firmer in body and more tannic in structure than most red Burgundy. While in the past there have been myriad underperformers here, the overall quality is now higher than ever and the best can develop into the most complete and long-lived Pinot Noir in the world.

Barrel-chested Alain Burguet has been one of Gevrey’s most respected vignerons for a quarter of a century. He has been making terrific wines in Gevrey Chambertin for nearly thirty years, during which time his techniques have evolved. He left school in 1964 to work in the vines and made his first vintage under his own name in 1972. Alain is approximately two barrels tall by one barrel wide, and his muscular physique could be seen in the wines he made in the 1980s, where the tannins were occasionally too firm for the fruit. His style has evolved since then, the fruit now being picked later and riper to add a richer dimension to his wines. He is now assisted by his two sons, Jean-Luc and Eric.   Most of the 8 hectare domaine consists of village Gevrey Chambertin. Les Justices, En Billard and En Reniard are bottled on their own, alongside two blends – a Gevrey Chambertin Tradition and his excellent ‘Mes Favorites’, made from old vines and favoured sites. There is also a small cuvée of premier cru Les Champeaux, just 0.18 ha. These are supplemented by three negociant cuvées – Chambolle Musigny Les Chardannes, Vosne Romanée 1er cru les Rouges and grand cru Chambertin Clos de Bèze so that Alain can try his hand at making different appellations. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.