2010 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Sylvain Loichet, Burgundy

This is a thoroughly fine range from the young and enthusiastic Sylvain Loichet in 2010. The whites have their usual energy and pure fruit while the reds have been fine-tuned, with a slightly shorter time in vat producing far more elegant wines. This is becoming an exceptionally good address. Note also the two cuvées of Corton-Charlemagne from different parts of the hill.

Sylvain’s parcel of vines is over seventy years old and is situated in the south of the Clos, towards Voosne-Romanée, around halfway up the vineyard on deep clay soils with a well-drained, stony topsoil. From the excellent 2010 vintage, this wine is now really coming into its stride, unfurling majestically from its slumber to reveal beguiling aromas of black and red berry fruits. The previously tightly-wound palate has opened up beautifully to reveal a silky tannic structure backed up by the genuine power of a Grand Cru. Drinking beautifully now, but will continue to improve for several years.