2013 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Domaine Maume, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Bertrand Maume and his colleagues from Marchand-Tawse now assist in the winemaking process since Moray Tawse bought the domaine in 2011. Bertrand was at the helm of Domaine Maume in Burgundy from 1991 until 2011 in succession to his father Bernard. The wines are still recognisably in the same style, though perhaps the firmness of the tannins has been ameliorated by slightly fuller fruit. Almost every year there is a technical modification to improve quality, whether it be a pneumatic press (1999) sorting table (2001) or destalking the grapes without crushing (2005). The grapes are now cooled before the fermentation gets under way, spending three to four weeks in the vats with both punching down and pumping over. The wines are then matured for up to 22 months without racking and they are neither fined nor filtered before bottling.   The Maumes see their wines falling into two groups: Etelois, Champeaux and Charmes are pretty and succulent, thus requiring oak from Jupilles or Troncais in the hands of coopers who specialise in finesse. En Pallud, the premier cru cuvée and Mazis-Chambertin have more rugged frames and need the firmer hand of Nevers wood from (e.g.) Berthomieu. while Lavaux is between the two, tending one way or the other according to vintage. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.