2003 Hermitage Rouge, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Rhône

I’ve rated the 2003 Hermitage perfect numerous times, and while sound bottles are still as good as it gets, I’ve also had some tired bottles here in the States, so provenance is critical with this vintage. Still youthfully coloured yet just starting to show some maturity in its aromatics of blackberries, dark currants, liquorice, spice box, and leather, this fabulously textured, opulent 2003 hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a wealth of sweet tannins, and a monster of a finish. Clearing 15% alcohol (and I think the pH is probably around 4), it should be a required tasting for all those touting the low alcohol nonsense. This singular beauty can be drunk today with incredible pleasure or cellared for another two decades, if you’re so inclined.Drink 2020 - 2040jeb_dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com (February 2020)

The perfect 2003 Hermitage has acquired extraordinary minerality and definition since I first tasted it 12 months earlier. Its inky/purple colour is accompanied by glorious aromas of creme de cassis, black cherries, liquorice, crushed rocks, and flowers. Prodigiously rich and full-bodied yet elegant and fresh, this is a tour de force in winemaking. This extraordinary Hermitage has no overripe, scorched, pruny, fig-like notes. It will be drinkable young yet evolve for 35-40+ years.Drink 2006 - 2046Robert M. Parker, Jr., Wine Advocate (February 2006)

Chave's 2003 Hermitage, like the most successful Burgundies from that anomalous vintage, somehow retains a sense of mineral freshness that balances this wine's remarkable concentration and massive fruit. Tasted at the domaine, it's even floral and perfumed on the nose, an incredible feat when faced with that summer's implacable heat. Full-bodied, massively rich and decadently creamy in texture, it delivers waves of mixed red and black fruits that avoid any overtly raisiny character, finishing vibrant, peppery and long.Jean-Louis Chave seems increasingly confident at the helm of this legendary domaine. We spent some time discussing the 2018 vintage, which he rates highly. "The wines are not really jammy. They're almost as ripe as 2003, but for some reason, the grapes weren't raisiny," he said. "The vines never really stopped. In mid-August, we had 40 millimetres of rain—perfect timing. And at the end of August, another little rain." Hermitage shines this year. "In Hermitage, you can push things to the limit and still be OK," Chave said. "Even when it's extreme, the grands terroirs are still the grands terroirs." Looking at recent vintages, Chave summarized the similarities as follows: 2015, he compares to 1990; 2016 to 2010; 2017 to 2000. As for 2018, said Chave, "It wouldn't be right to compare 2018 and 2003. The ripeness is extreme, but in the end, they're very different wines."  Hermitage aside, Chave has spent much of his time in recent years working on his vineyards in Saint Joseph. He said he thinks of Saint Joseph as a wine for bistros rather than haute cuisine, but Chave's Saint Joseph's have quickly progressed beyond that in terms of quality (and, unfortunately, price).Drink 2015 - 2040Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (December 2019)

The wine exhibits a dense ruby/purple color, a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, black cherry, licorice, pepper, and a hint of olive paste. It is a full-bodied wine that tastes atypical for this vintage with its beautifully integrated acidity and sweet tannin. The wine is structured, more masculine and backward than the over-the-top, full-throttle 2003...an improved, modern-day version of the 1988 or 1998. (robert_parker - Wine Advocate - Apr 07)