1999 Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru, Domaine Armand Rousseau, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Domaine Armand Rousseau is one of the most famous and best domaines in Burgundy. Based in Gevrey-Chambertin, the estate is formed of just over 15 hectares, over half of which is Grand Cru. This is one of Burgundy’s greatest domaines – in terms of history, vineyard holdings and quality of wine. The original Armand Rousseau was at the forefront of the first wave of domaine bottling in the 1930s. He was succeeded by his son Charles in 1959, shortly after they had bought a significant slice of the Clos St Jacques vineyard. Today Eric, grandson of Armand, is in charge of the vines and cellar, with the help of his daughter Cyrielle. The domaine produces pale, finely structured wines of great elegance and stamina. The simple principle of old (but not ancient) vines and sensible yields dictates the Rousseau style. Sometimes the wines can appear light in their youth, but they nearly always take on weight as they age. The farming here is traditional, with green harvesting where necessary to control yields (which range between 30 and 40hl/ha). The vineyards are ploughed and the use of sprays minimal. In the winery, 90% of the fruit is de-stemmed – the 10% whole-bunch adding tannin and structure to the wines. Fermentation is in open-topped stainless steel vats, with regular pumping over and punch-downs, but temperatures kept below 31°C. The fruit is then pressed gently, settles and transferred to barrel where the wines gently mature. While the wines are by far some of the most collectible, commanding high prices on the secondary market, the family makes great wines with the hope that they will be drunk, not traded – a hope that we share. We are one of the distributors for Domaine Rousseau in the UK. We have limited stocks available that are not listed online. Please contact us at finewine@bbr.com or on 020 3301 2883 for more information.