1998 Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain

There are some who claim that Gran Reserva Rioja provides almost too much of a good thing; why leave the wine for quite so long in wood, when, with a shorter maturation, one would have a more expressive and robust Reserva wine. These people are entitled to this opinion; indeed, in the vast majority of cases, they are probably right, as there are many rather fragile, lack-lustre Gran Reservas on the market. Not so with La Rioja Alta.

Made up of 90% Tempranillo, with 10% of Graciano, the 1998 was aged for four years in American oak, racked every six months and then bottled with minimal filtration. The colour is typically mature with crepuscular hints of amber at the rim; the nose is, as always, charming, gently lifted with hints of leather, wild strawberry and scorched earth. The acidity on the palate is lifted, but not to excess and it provides an attractive back-drop to the beautifully mature fruit. A very fine wine , wonderfully food friendly; wonderful full stop.
Simon Field MW, Fine Wine Buyer