2017 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, Camille Giroud, Burgundy

All whole-bunch and, in partnership with the Charmes vineyard’s already warm-hearted personality, this is almost too much of a good thing. This is incredibly rich and succulent, like a warm bath of Pinot Noir. A remarkable, indulgent and irresistible wine. Drink 2025-2030.

With a range that spans both Côtes, Carel observed that the red vintage is about pretty, balanced, fresh fruit. The reds south of Beaune are generally lighter than the north, where there is better phenolic intensity. Carel puts the whites on a par with 2014, but the raw material is healthier and so the wines are purer. He rates 2017 as one of the best white vintages in the last decade. Stylistically, Carel’s preferred direction for reds is towards whole-bunch and he confesses he would always do 100 percent if he could (and this year he often has).