2009 Volnay, Les Blanches, Domaine Darviot-Perrin, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

The domaine was created by Didier Darviot in 1989 with his wife Geneviève, née Perrin, whose family is the source of many of the vineyards. This is a meticulous producer with fine, pure, precisely focussed wines of both colours. Though based in Monthélie, the core of the domaine rotates around holdings in Meursault, including 1ers crus Charmes, Genevrières and Perrières, Chassagne-Montrachet including 1ers crus Blanchots-Dessus (white) and Bondues (red) and Volnay, including 1ers crus La Gigotte and Santenots,. There is also a very good village bottling of Volnay Les Blanches. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.