2021 Riesling, Rangen de Thann, Clos Saint Urbain, Grand Cru, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace

The 2021 Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru is from the famously steep and dark volcanic rock of Rangen with some sandstone inclusions. The soil is rich in potassium which buffers the pH of the wine, making the acid less strident yet lending much power to the wines. The oldest plots of Riesling are up to 60 years old; the younger vines are 45 years old. The color is golden. Underneath the reduction is a spicy smokiness, with greengage and white pepper. There is something utterly fluid, intense, compact and concentrated that seems to have a total verticality, driving into the depth of the rock. The wine has luminous citric yet balanced freshness and is clear as a bell. Wait for this because it will be sensational. The finish is bone-dry and salty. (Bone-dry)Drink 2027-2080Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous.com.com (February 2023)

Welcome to the dark side of the dry riesling force where gunpowder meets the stone at the heart of the peach. Dazzling racy intensity. Super-long and pure with a mountain of crushed rock character at the smoky finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.Stuart Pigott, Senior Editor at jamessuckling_com (November 2023)