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2017 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine François Lamarche, Burgundy

  • Red
  • Dry
  • Medium Bodied
  • Pinot Noir
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Product: 20171040157
2017 Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine François Lamarche, Burgundy

Description

This is from three parcels: one at the south-eastern corner of the clos by the road; another higher, close to the château; and one in the south-west corner of the clos, so covering all three terroirs. As ever under Nicole’s guidance, this is an elegant expression of Clos de Vougeot, all the while remaining true to the broader structure and more powerful tannic profile of the vineyard. Drink 2025-2034.

After the frost of 2016, Nicole feels that the worst-affected parcels struggled somewhat this year, meaning Suchots and the lower part of Clos de Vougeot are less plentiful than she had hoped. Despite this, she believes her organic viticulture is useful in making the vines more resilient. The winemaking follows the now-established pattern of around a third whole bunches across the range, with new oak reaching 50 percent for La Grande Rue. Nicole is particularly fond of the 2017 vintage, praising the wines’ energy, elegance, ripe tannins, long finishes and, above all, balance.
Colour Red
Sweetness Dry
Vintage 2017
Alcohol % 13
Grape List Pinot Noir
Body Medium Bodied
Property Domaine Lamarche

About this wine

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Domaine Nicole Lamarche

The division of vineyards with Nicole's cousin Natalie is now complete, and Nicole now has under seven hectares, down from 11 hectares. The Malconsorts and Grands Echezeaux have gone but the monopole of La Grande Rue remains. Nicole Lamarche took over from her father, François, in 2006; from ’19, the domaine now carries her name. Nicole’s style is one of a light touch; the wines aren’t deeply coloured and are sensually soft yet show wonderful intensity. In the vineyard Under her aegis, the vineyards have been converted to organic and biodynamic production, although certification isn’t sought. The vines are now trained higher, and leaf cover is retained. In the cellar, the barrel regime has been changed, both in the lower proportion of new oak used each year, and in the coopers that supply the barrels In the winery When asked for details of the winemaking process, Nicole remains steadfastly enigmatic: there’s no formula and every cuvée receives a customised élevage. However, there’s always a proportion of whole bunch on the top wines, usually around 30%.

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