2006 Viña Tondonia Tinto, Reserva, Bodegas R. López de Heredia, Rioja, Spain

Due to limited quantities, this wine has been restricted to 2 bottles per customer.

I have said it before and I will say it again: the first sniff of Tondonia Tinto Reserva always makes me smile – and the 2006 is no exception. Reassuringly “Tondonia”, the nose exhibits the classic characteristics of sweet strawberries and leather, yet it is bright, perfumed and vibrant at the same time. It has wonderful complexity with supremely integrated hints of vanilla and that warming, autumnal feel which will make any aficionado of Spanish wines feel at home.

The palate is where there is a slight, subtle gearchange; it is lip-smackingly fresh with fine acidity and tart raspberry fruit. There is a real line to this wine; it feels “straight-up” – quite different to the open generosity of 2005. The tannins are super-fine, yet the structure of the wine is clear, all supported by gentle, supremely integrated oak. To complete a near-perfect picture is the serious, yet wonderfully long finish – a finish that is subtly complex yet which goes on and on towards nuanced depths, with even a hint of marmite.

It would be impossible not to enjoy this wine now, yet believe it or not, it still feels young. It will relax slightly, opening up even more over the next couple of years – and has wonderful potential for longevity. Enjoy at its peak from 2021 to ’35 onwards, but don’t be put off trying it now with a bit of air.

Catriona Felstead MW, Senior Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd